Path of the Gods
Day two on the Amalfi Coast was all about one mission: conquering the famous Path of the Gods. We had discovered the trail while planning our trip, and according to AllTrails it was rated “moderate,” clocking in at 5.8 miles with about 1,190 ft of elevation gain. Doable, we thought. So, we set the alarms early and made our way to the trailhead in Bomerano, an adventure in itself given the twists and turns of the drive.
Pro tip if you’re driving: there’s a free parking lot in Bomerano, but Google Maps can be tricky with directions. We used the address of a store right across the street, Via Principe di Piemonte, 75, 80051 Agerola NA, Italy, and had no problem finding it. From there, it was a short walk past a café (yes, we grabbed a quick espresso because Italy) before reaching the entrance.
The trail itself is beautiful but varied. One moment you’re on cobblestones, the next you’re navigating dirt paths or rocky steps. Definitely wear sturdy shoes, ideally trail shoes, and if you’re someone who loves a walking stick, this is the place to bring one. Signs help guide you along, but we relied on the AllTrails app to make sure we stayed on track.
About an hour in, just when the sun was heating up and our legs started to feel the climb, we stumbled upon Ulisse’s House, a tiny café tucked into the mountainside. Fresh-squeezed orange juice never tasted so good. Maybe it was the juice, maybe it was the hike, but it felt like pure heaven.
While AllTrails calls it moderate, we’d rank it a little tougher, especially the descent into Positano. The views are jaw-dropping, but the steep, uneven steps will test your balance and patience. Still, every step closer to Positano feels like walking into a dream.
After five solid hours of hiking, we finally arrived, completely spent but exhilarated. We refueled at La Zagara, a lovely spot in town where we dove into pizza and gnocchi. Delicious, but fair warning, Positano prices are definitely higher than what you’ll find in smaller towns.
From there, it was time to ferry over to Amalfi. Tickets are easy to buy, either online or directly from the kiosks at the port. We went with Alilauro and had no issues. Just brace yourself: Amalfi is next-level when it comes to crowds. Think “tourist central.” The line to get off the ferry was no joke.
Since there’s no Uber in the area, we had to take a bus back to Bomerano. Car services require advance reservations (something we didn’t realize at first). To get bus tickets, we tracked down a person in a neon vest near the station—cash only, €3 each. With a little extra time before departure, we treated ourselves to gelato (because when in Italy, the answer to everything is gelato).
The bus wound us back up the cliffs to Bomerano, where we collected our car and drove home to Ravello. After a quick change, we headed out for our final dinner on the Amalfi Coast, yes, more incredible pizza, before collapsing back at our Airbnb.
Tomorrow: Naples!
